The word prodigy gets used about young chefs so often it's lost most of its force, but Allen is a reasonable candidate for the real version of it.

Lunch moves at its own pace, not slow for effect, just steady. Dishes land clean and exacting, vegetables leading more often than not, treated with the kind of reverence usually reserved for proteins.

Margaret is a sleek, $5 million ode to fine dining complete with blush banquettes and taupe tiles. But it begs a question? Does it live up to the hype or is it just another overpriced meat parade?