This one struts in with confidence, is medium-bodied but it’s got a spring in its step. There’s lift, there’s poise, but don’t be fooled because it’s not here to make friends. The tannins are silky but know how to throw a punch, the acidity is razor sharp and the whole thing fits together like a custom blazer flung over a vintage band tee.

Venture past the Instagram clichés and you’ll find something much juicier simmering away in the regions. There is a grassroots food and drink culture quietly, gloriously redefining what it means to eat and drink well. Forget the cities. The real culinary revolution is happening in the bush, and it’s packing more flavour than your favourite wine bar in Fitzroy