Their 2024 Speedo Gris takes Pinot Gris by the hand, walks it into a lo-fi fermentation room and tells it to strip down and get dirty. Skin contact? Yes. Funk? Absolutely. A label that looks like a pool party got printed on an old photocopier? Of course.

It's fair to say that I am a bit of a whore for a Yarra Valley Pinot Noir. Subtlety and complexity abound, and the hallmarks of bright...