Their 2024 Speedo Gris takes Pinot Gris by the hand, walks it into a lo-fi fermentation room and tells it to strip down and get dirty. Skin contact? Yes. Funk? Absolutely. A label that looks like a pool party got printed on an old photocopier? Of course.

This old Scoffer has long been a fan of Super Nanny Pinot Noir from Central Otago in New Zealand. It's one of those Pinot's I keep going...