...and something vaguely Alsatian going on. Provence via Perth, basically.

From Ningxia, along the eastern foothills of the Helan Mountains where vineyards cling to the edge of desert and altitude does as much work as ambition, this is a Chardonnay that feels both fluent and slightly out of step, in the best possible way.

If wine could tell a story, Billy Button Mysterious Malvasia would be the elusive, mysterious character in an epic novel. This bottle...