Lunch moves at its own pace, not slow for effect, just steady. Dishes land clean and exacting, vegetables leading more often than not, treated with the kind of reverence usually reserved for proteins.

But every once in a while, a bottle comes along that walks the tightrope between vegetal and vivacious with all the poise of a French acrobat who microdoses acid. Rarer than rocking horse poo, Domain Simha Sauvignon Blanc from Louise Radman and Nav Singh is a Tasmanian temptress