Rhône roots, Yarra swagger. If you want to taste what modern Aussie Syrah should be doing, not trying to win arm-wrestling matches with Barossa Shiraz, this is it. No jammy bombast, no oak overkill and no need to shout.

There is a lot of wine I like. A lot. And my taste wanders from finding quirky alternative varietals, to wandering back to robust and...