Bird on a Wire 2017 Shiraz

You can’t throw a cork in the Rhône without hitting a Chave barrel, and Bird on a Wire's Caroline Mooney has been elbow deep in one. Yes, the Jean-Louis Chave aka Hermitage royalty, and the kind of name to make a sommelier weep softly into their notebook. When Mooney brings that Hermitage training back to the Yarra Valley, you don’t ignore it, more you pay attention and top up your glass.

Sure, we could call her Syrah a nod to the Rhône and it is, kind of. But slapping a Rhône like label on it would be selling it criminally short. This isn’t a tribute act. This is the Yarra Valley when its done absolutely right and Mooney should know. She’s been at this since 2008, a local through and through crafting wines with brains, soul and zero interest in chasing trends. This Syrah doesn’t need to shout. It lingers. It prowls. It’s lithe, supple, and just the right kind of dangerous.

Mooney’s Syrah is the real deal cool climate benchmark; fragrant, savoury, and sultry as hell. Nose first into the glass and sour cherry and cranberry are the first to show up, but they don’t come alone. Throw in some cracked pepper & dried herbs and enough spice rack action to make your Sunday roast feel underdressed. There’s that twiggy, smoky, don’t call it bretty complexity and underneath it all a gritty, mineral backbone. There’s a touch of meatiness too, like a whisper of cured charcuterie at the edge. It’s wild, savoury, and just restrained enough to keep you wanting more.

Rhône roots, Yarra swagger. If you want to taste what modern Aussie Syrah should be doing, not trying to win arm-wrestling matches with Barossa Shiraz, this is it. No jammy bombast, no oak overkill and no need to shout. Just a wine that moves with quiet confidence, unfolding layer by layer. It’s cool-climate Syrah at its most grown-up and frankly, it’s about time.

RRP $45

https://birdonawirewines.com.au/

VIC |2017 | Yarra Valley | 14%