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Each dish carries at least one rescued or repurposed element, and the menu is entirely unembarrassed about it. Egg white garum on the broccoli, spent citrus in the kosho under the octopus, spent coffee beside the passionfruit ice cream and a retired dairy cow with garum butter.

The service deserves its own paragraph. It was busy enough to excuse a lot and nothing needed excusing. Orders came out in the right sequence and water appeared without a request. The tables on the footpath where we sat were looked after as well as the ones inside, which is not a given on a morning like this.