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Each dish carries at least one rescued or repurposed element, and the menu is entirely unembarrassed about it. Egg white garum on the broccoli, spent citrus in the kosho under the octopus, spent coffee beside the passionfruit ice cream and a retired dairy cow with garum butter.

Having your friends make gin is a blessing and a curse. A blessing because, of course, you get to support their endeavours, and be a...