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The sea breeze arrives first, as it should with this grape, then grapefruit and jasmine. The palate is dry and lean, bright with citrus and a faint toasty edge, and the acidity is chalky enough to keep everything in line. The minerals do the talking and the fruit lets them.

Greco keeps its natural acidity through a warm Heathcote summer, which lets the fruit ripen without going soft. The winemaking is plain and the result is not. It is such an interesting wine because it is like nothing else.

...and something vaguely Alsatian going on. Provence via Perth, basically.

From Ningxia, along the eastern foothills of the Helan Mountains where vineyards cling to the edge of desert and altitude does as much work as ambition, this is a Chardonnay that feels both fluent and slightly out of step, in the best possible way.

If wine could tell a story, Billy Button Mysterious Malvasia would be the elusive, mysterious character in an epic novel. This bottle...